New here

[Royale Ranch]

...

great advice, Malakai, very helpful, even for those of us that have been playing for a little while!
thanks a million!

[Malakai10]

...

great advice, Malakai, very helpful, even for those of us that have been playing for a little while! :)
thanks a million!

Pleasure

[Holly Cedric]

Hi,

at first, I don't know if this is the right place to start this topic, so sorry if it isn't . Also I'm Dutch, so if you don't like bad grammar or don't like simple words, then please don't read this . I follow bilingual education, so almost all of my classes are in English so I know some words

But anyway, I'm new here on this game so tips and tricks are more then welcome (and just send me a mail when you want to talk, I don't bite (when I'm full)). At the moment I'm level 3.5 and have had my first foal. It's a colt Turkmene (never heard of the breed but I thought they looked cute at this game)

I you want to help me with this game or with my English, or maybe something else I can't think about, please do. You're always welcome

Psycho0912

Hi Psycho0912

I will attempt to give you advice but, if you have any additional questions, do feel free to ask. Also, make sure that you have read through the FAQ http://www.horseworldonline.net/forum/v ... =12&t=1692

One more thing before I start: your English is great. I can understand it easily. About using simple words - the only place that one will usually find complex words (even with native speakers!) is when someone is trying to show off OR the complex word is the only word that fits.

And, quite frankly, you are better at your second language (English, I assume) than I am at mine (Afrikaans).
The first thing that I wish to talk about is COI.

COI:

COI stands for Coefficient Of Inbreeding. Basically, it means how closely related are this horse's ancestors. Whether or not a low COI makes a horse more valuable depends on the person. A great horse with a low COI is difficult to breed, which, immediately does make it more valuable because of how hard the horse was to create. However, at this point in the game (what with COI having next to no negative effect) one could call attempting to keep a low COI redundant.

For example, if you in-breed a lot of horses with red stats, you're going to have great difficulty in getting rid of those red-stats. On the flip side, horses with green and gold stats will be further 'cemented' into those lines.

Breeders' report:

The second thing, which at one point caused great confusion amongst us, is that a breeders report with a comment coloured gold/yellow is better than a green coloured one.

There are two stats that you will not find in gold, movement and/or strength. From what I know, currently, there are very few horses with gold/green movement and/or strength. You will have difficulty finding such horses for sale or stud.

Pricing of horses:

The pricing of horses varies, but, if you want to know how much a horse is worth, the answer is simple:

A horse is worth as much as someone will pay for it.

That's it.

The following is my personal opinion and assume that the horses have the conformation and stats that I want:

One or more red comment: I never buy reds. If I do, I would not pay more than 1,5k. I would not buy a horse with more than one red comment - they're just not worth it, no matter if they're priced $1 000 or $1.

One or more negative comment: I don't often buy these horses. The only time I do is when they have something else that I am really desperate for (coat colour, GP or stats). The same with regards to red, I would not buy one with more than one negative comment, tops. I'd never pay more than 5k - no matter how well trained the horse is and for every negative comment, 1k is to be subtracted.

All neutral comments: These are okay horses. For an untrained one with no additional appeal, I would not pay more than 5k.

One green: This is also an okay horse. I'll price it some as neutral, maybe a bit higher.

Two greens OR one gold: Only slightly better than one green. I'll never pay above 6k (if it has no additional appeal.)

Three greens OR two greens and a gold: This is still an okay horse. Don't pay more than 7k.

Four to six greens OR three to four greens with one gold: This horse is pretty good. 20k max.

Seven or eight greens OR five to six greens with two to three golds: This horse has movement and/or strength green (OR GOLD!!!) This horse is valuable. I would pay the lowest price I could but it could easily go up to half a million. Never price such a valuable horse below 75k.

Four to six golds: This is a brilliant horse. I would pay up to 100k but, more generally, I pay about 20k - 50k.

Four to six golds with four to two greens: Brilliant horse. This horse is awesome. I'll pay anything short of $700 000.

Seven to eight golds: This is it. The ultimate horse. This is the sort of horse that is worth millions - easily up to ten.

Training:
0% - <50% = +$0
50% - <150% = +$800
150% - <250% = +$1 500
250% - <350% = +$2 500
350% - <450% = +$3 800
450% - <550% = +$5 000
550% - <650% = +$6 200
650% - <750% = +$7 500
750% - <800%* = +$16 000

Colouring: if a horse has a colouring that I really want I'll happily slap an extra 10k - 30k on the horse.

HGP: Horse Genetic Potential is listed at the bottom of the horse's page. It's labled, so you'll find it easily enough. I really wouldn't bother with horses that have anything less than 45k. I do believe that the highest, current, HGP is 76k and that the highest possible is 80k (but I might be wrong!)

Conformation: You aren't going to be able to know this unless someone has put it in the horse's notes. It's only available for premium accounts (something that I do recommend getting if you play this game 4-7 times a week.)
If you are able to view conformation, one thing to check is the shoulders, ribs and hips. Shoulders must always be sloped with a low point. The hips must be long and the rib cage deep. There is no advantage to the other end of the spectrum (except breed standard, if you care for such things).

Starting off:

I don't recommend starting with adoption centre horses if you want a lot of money anytime soon. Get a good, cheap fillyfrom the market, train her and compete her. Breed her to the highest, male record holder of the discipline she is best at.

Purebred?

All adoption centre horses are purebred. Please note that purebred horses don't always look like the breed. HWO is more realistic in that it does not follow the body shape of the breed, but rather adoption centre horses look anyway from exactly to vaguely like the breed and horses that are breed follow GENETICS not set skins for breeds. Hence how you will encounter roman-nosed Arabians and dish-faced Belgians.

The breed is listed at the top left. Now, you may notice it saying something like [+1] or [+2]. This shows how many generations purebred the horse is. A [100%] shows that this is the first horse of it's lineage bred back to pure (for example, if I cross my Deliboz X's to purebred Deliboz, after a few generations a horse will pop up with a [100%]. This is the first purebred.)

There are four key words next to breed (for crosses): half, grade, mixed and part.

Half is self explanatory. If it lists two breeds, along with half, with horse is exactly half and half. It it only says, for example: 'Half Deliboz', your horse is exactly half Deliboz but has and additional to or more breeds in it's ancestry.

Grade horses are complete mixes. They are a mix of so many breeds that one cannot even list a single breed as a 'dominant' breed.

Mixed horses are, if I remember correctly, a horse that has less than 50% of a breed in it's ancestry. E.G. A grade horse cross a half Deliboz. Only one breed will be listed.

Part horses have more than 50% of a breed in them. One OR two breeds will be listed.

Necessary guides to look at:
http://www.horseworldonline.net/forum/v ... =12&t=1235 (Use this to determine what stats to train depending on the discipline that you want.)

http://www.horseworldonline.net/forum/v ... 12&t=10296 (One of the most helpful guides. Learn how to ping as some players, such as myself, will only respond if they are pinged.)

http://www.horseworldonline.net/forum/v ... eed#p45183

Accounts!

You are allowed two accounts. Use this! Make another account and do whatever on it! Most players use their second account to store horses that they don't want to age.

Training:

http://www.horseworldonline.net/forum/v ... &start=550 (The first post on the page linked has my training advice in addition to links to training guides.)

PS: I hold this monthly sponsored (a competition in which the host is not attempting to make a profit. The entry fee is ridiculously low and the prize is high) race http://www.horseworldonline.net/competitions/view/39132.

I think that that is everything that I have to add. If there is anything that I have left out, please do ask.

Please come and collect your horses. In 6 days I will class them as my own. Your bill is now $4050 as it has been 24 hours since they should of been collected and you didn’t get in touch at all

[Malakai10]

Hi Psycho0912

I will attempt to give you advice but, if you have any additional questions, do feel free to ask. Also, make sure that you have read through the FAQ http://www.horseworldonline.net/forum/v ... =12&t=1692

One more thing before I start: your English is great. I can understand it easily. About using simple words - the only place that one will usually find complex words (even with native speakers!) is when someone is trying to show off OR the complex word is the only word that fits.

And, quite frankly, you are better at your second language (English, I assume) than I am at mine (Afrikaans).
The first thing that I wish to talk about is COI.

COI:

COI stands for Coefficient Of Inbreeding. Basically, it means how closely related are this horse's ancestors. Whether or not a low COI makes a horse more valuable depends on the person. A great horse with a low COI is difficult to breed, which, immediately does make it more valuable because of how hard the horse was to create. However, at this point in the game (what with COI having next to no negative effect) one could call attempting to keep a low COI redundant.

For example, if you in-breed a lot of horses with red stats, you're going to have great difficulty in getting rid of those red-stats. On the flip side, horses with green and gold stats will be further 'cemented' into those lines.

Breeders' report:

The second thing, which at one point caused great confusion amongst us, is that a breeders report with a comment coloured gold/yellow is better than a green coloured one.

There are two stats that you will not find in gold, movement and/or strength. From what I know, currently, there are very few horses with gold/green movement and/or strength. You will have difficulty finding such horses for sale or stud.

Pricing of horses:

The pricing of horses varies, but, if you want to know how much a horse is worth, the answer is simple:

A horse is worth as much as someone will pay for it.

That's it.

The following is my personal opinion and assume that the horses have the conformation and stats that I want:

One or more red comment: I never buy reds. If I do, I would not pay more than 1,5k. I would not buy a horse with more than one red comment - they're just not worth it, no matter if they're priced $1 000 or $1.

One or more negative comment: I don't often buy these horses. The only time I do is when they have something else that I am really desperate for (coat colour, GP or stats). The same with regards to red, I would not buy one with more than one negative comment, tops. I'd never pay more than 5k - no matter how well trained the horse is and for every negative comment, 1k is to be subtracted.

All neutral comments: These are okay horses. For an untrained one with no additional appeal, I would not pay more than 5k.

One green: This is also an okay horse. I'll price it some as neutral, maybe a bit higher.

Two greens OR one gold: Only slightly better than one green. I'll never pay above 6k (if it has no additional appeal.)

Three greens OR two greens and a gold: This is still an okay horse. Don't pay more than 7k.

Four to six greens OR three to four greens with one gold: This horse is pretty good. 20k max.

Seven or eight greens OR five to six greens with two to three golds: This horse has movement and/or strength green (OR GOLD!!!) This horse is valuable. I would pay the lowest price I could but it could easily go up to half a million. Never price such a valuable horse below 75k.

Four to six golds: This is a brilliant horse. I would pay up to 100k but, more generally, I pay about 20k - 50k.

Four to six golds with four to two greens: Brilliant horse. This horse is awesome. I'll pay anything short of $700 000.

Seven to eight golds: This is it. The ultimate horse. This is the sort of horse that is worth millions - easily up to ten.

Training:
0% - <50% = +$0
50% - <150% = +$800
150% - <250% = +$1 500
250% - <350% = +$2 500
350% - <450% = +$3 800
450% - <550% = +$5 000
550% - <650% = +$6 200
650% - <750% = +$7 500
750% - <800%* = +$16 000

Colouring: if a horse has a colouring that I really want I'll happily slap an extra 10k - 30k on the horse.

HGP: Horse Genetic Potential is listed at the bottom of the horse's page. It's labled, so you'll find it easily enough. I really wouldn't bother with horses that have anything less than 45k. I do believe that the highest, current, HGP is 76k and that the highest possible is 80k (but I might be wrong!)

Conformation: You aren't going to be able to know this unless someone has put it in the horse's notes. It's only available for premium accounts (something that I do recommend getting if you play this game 4-7 times a week.)
If you are able to view conformation, one thing to check is the shoulders, ribs and hips. Shoulders must always be sloped with a low point. The hips must be long and the rib cage deep. There is no advantage to the other end of the spectrum (except breed standard, if you care for such things).

Starting off:

I don't recommend starting with adoption centre horses if you want a lot of money anytime soon. Get a good, cheap fillyfrom the market, train her and compete her. Breed her to the highest, male record holder of the discipline she is best at.

Purebred?

All adoption centre horses are purebred. Please note that purebred horses don't always look like the breed. HWO is more realistic in that it does not follow the body shape of the breed, but rather adoption centre horses look anyway from exactly to vaguely like the breed and horses that are breed follow GENETICS not set skins for breeds. Hence how you will encounter roman-nosed Arabians and dish-faced Belgians.

The breed is listed at the top left. Now, you may notice it saying something like [+1] or [+2]. This shows how many generations purebred the horse is. A [100%] shows that this is the first horse of it's lineage bred back to pure (for example, if I cross my Deliboz X's to purebred Deliboz, after a few generations a horse will pop up with a [100%]. This is the first purebred.)

There are four key words next to breed (for crosses): half, grade, mixed and part.

Half is self explanatory. If it lists two breeds, along with half, with horse is exactly half and half. It it only says, for example: 'Half Deliboz', your horse is exactly half Deliboz but has and additional to or more breeds in it's ancestry.

Grade horses are complete mixes. They are a mix of so many breeds that one cannot even list a single breed as a 'dominant' breed.

Mixed horses are, if I remember correctly, a horse that has less than 50% of a breed in it's ancestry. E.G. A grade horse cross a half Deliboz. Only one breed will be listed.

Part horses have more than 50% of a breed in them. One OR two breeds will be listed.

Necessary guides to look at:
http://www.horseworldonline.net/forum/v ... =12&t=1235 (Use this to determine what stats to train depending on the discipline that you want.)

http://www.horseworldonline.net/forum/v ... 12&t=10296 (One of the most helpful guides. Learn how to ping as some players, such as myself, will only respond if they are pinged.)

http://www.horseworldonline.net/forum/v ... eed#p45183

Accounts!

You are allowed two accounts. Use this! Make another account and do whatever on it! Most players use their second account to store horses that they don't want to age.

Training:

http://www.horseworldonline.net/forum/v ... &start=550 (The first post on the page linked has my training advice in addition to links to training guides.)

PS: I hold this monthly sponsored (a competition in which the host is not attempting to make a profit. The entry fee is ridiculously low and the prize is high) race http://www.horseworldonline.net/competitions/view/39132.

I think that that is everything that I have to add. If there is anything that I have left out, please do ask.

Please come and collect your horses. In 6 days I will class them as my own. Your bill is now $4050 as it has been 24 hours since they should of been collected and you didn’t get in touch at all

I do apologise. I completely forgot about them.

[Holly Cedric]

Please come and collect your horses. In 6 days I will class them as my own. Your bill is now $4050 as it has been 24 hours since they should of been collected and you didn’t get in touch at all

I do apologise. I completely forgot about them.

It’s fine they’re are all up for offers now

[Malakai10]

I do apologise. I completely forgot about them.

It’s fine they’re are all up for offers now

Brilliant. Thanks